I actually do not think that mine have any indication on them (front or
back) that they are American Racing or Silverstones.
I have a set of the magnesium ones.
The lug holes are exactly as you describe - they are "straight through"
holes and require straight shank lugnuts and washers in order to fit them.
and yes - they don't inspire confidence that they are actually doing the job
of centering up the wheel on the hub.
Beyond that - it is a pain in the ass to mount them compared to tapered seat
/ lug style wheels.
You sort of have to put the wheel up on the studs - of course gravity wants
to pull it down so the holes don't want to be on the centers of the studs.
Then what I end up doing is putting a couple of the lug nuts on by just a
couple threads.
Then I end up lifting the wheel - and pulling it up onto the straight shanks
of the lugnuts.
Then you progressively tighten them down.
It's a real pain.
I've thought of getting some wheel shop to press in some sort of top hat
bushing style inserts that will let me use the tapered seat lug nuts.
I'm concerned about the metalurgy though. (dissimilar metals and galvanic
corrosion and all that stuff you know)
as far as identifying them - the "spokes" radiate all the way towards the
middle. They have a generous clearance in some of the spokes to allow for a
good sized lug wrench to get to the lug nuts. Which is a good thing because
you are going to want to use some large washers to spread out the clamping
load under the heads of the lug nuts.
You can buy the lugnuts anwhere. Seriously - almost any autoparts store.
Straight shank - with washers - 7/16 thread size.
don't go for the "short shank style" if anything go for the longer shank
ones and get some extra large washers (be wary of using the tiny ones that
come with some of those lug nut kits.)
Mine need crack testing and restoring as well.
I"m not sure where to do it.
I don't trust just anyone to do it.
So I'd be interested in hearing anyone else's responses too.
Cheers.
Scott Tilton
In Alexandria, VA
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