Bill.
thanks for the postand the advice. The advantage of adding rose jounts at
the end of the a-arms is that you can adjust them to any length. On the
TR6, I tried moving thebgall joint in about 3/8 inch because the DPO had
welded the lower arm mount in so I could not shim it in the ususal 6
manner. Even this amount took me from 0 camber to too much [according to
the temps].
Now, on bump steer. I thoughtthe theory was to keep the lwer A arm and the
tie rod arm parllel. Just adjusted the streert car's sway bar. Did this
with the bar completely unloaded, then dropped the front onto my wheel
ramps. While adjusting the sway bar, I took the time to observe how the tie
rod bolted into the steering arm. It was slanted down hill about 25-30
degrees. Indeed, the arm on the hub that the tie rod joint goes into is
slandted down to accomplish this. Any idea of the "Why" of this design and
if it makes sense to lessen the amount of drop. Some one of these days I
will actually have most of a car ready such that I can play around with the
TR6 and bunp steer. Anyone out there have any advice?
On Dec 23, 2007 1:24 PM, <Gt6steve@aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 12/23/2007 12:30:01 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> BillB@bnj.com writes:
>
>
> I've harped on this before, but the bump steer in these cars is horrific.
> You
> can work to eliminate that and have a car that works so much better you
> won't
> believe the difference. Once you do that you can soften those springs and
> let
> the suspension work some. Makes another huge difference.
>
>
>
> Amen!
>
>
>
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Chuck Arnold
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