Vito:
OEM fasteners were plain steel. That's why they rust =:-o I used
zinc
plated fasteners. If you want the OEM look without the rust, go
stainless.
Stainless is usually low strength however, so it really only works in
in a few places on the motor and is more expensive.
Gasket dressing will help prevent leaks, given the miserable
state of
English gasket technology on the TR6. Permatex Hylomar if you can find
it (another
lister said it was discontinued) or Permatex NON-HARDENING
form-a-gasket.
I say non-hardening because if/when it comes time to replace the
pump,
removal and cleanup is a snap, with no gasket scraping or four letter
words. You
must use a conventional gasket with the non-hardening stuff, but it
sticks to
anything and resists gasoline, oil, coolant, etc.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Vito
Sent: December 19, 2007 7:33 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] water pump install
Thanks to everyone that sent me photos for the fuel line. They helped a
ton.
I've got another question for the concours crowd.
How was the water pump detailed? Was the pump assembled to the housing
with
the studs and nuts and then all painted as an assembly? Or are the studs
and
nuts supposed to show up as zinc plated with no paint?
Also, I am assuming that it is best to use some sort of gasket seal for
the
gasket between the water pump and housing? probably use something on
both
sides of the gasket?
And lastly, what's the best stuff to use?
Thanks!
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