Carl:
The current thinking is that some designs result in the shock
bottoming out when fully compressed, and this causes frame cracking.
Also to be avoided are designs that attach to the body tub.
The preferred design seems to be one that attaches only to the
frame and trailing arm, and has a shock length and travel such that when
fully compressed the suspension bottoms out on the factory rubber bump
stop, rather than the shock itself.
I *SUPPOSE* that you might get away with a longer shock if you
also uprated the rear springs so that the suspension seldom bottoms out
- but it seems that sooner or later you would accumulated enough wear
that the frame would start to crack, even with uprated springs.
All IMHO, of course.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of CARL CARLSON
Sent: September 27, 2007 9:16 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] shocks
As per the rear shock conversion for the TR6 does anyone have some input
as to why some
cars have the mount break at the frame and some go for years with out a
problem? I understand
some conversions have a extra brace but I'm talking about the ones that
mount direct to the
factory bracket.
CARL CARLSON
actionsl@mindspring.com
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