Bill:
If the lock itself has failed, then yes it is a nasty little
project. You will need to remove the speedo and tach, and then use a
Dremel to cut slots in the ends of the tamper proof bolts. This in turn
will let you unscrew the bolts that mount the lock to the steering
column. The switch harness simply unplugs
from the main harness. I recommend that you not use tamper proof screws
to reinstall, rather use socket head cap screws (metric, by the way).
If the switch has failed but the lock is good, then life is very
simple indeed. The switch is fastened to the lock mechanism with a
single set screw. Back out the set screw and the switch separates from
the lock. Unplug the old switch from the wiring harness, plug in the new
one and tighten the set screw. 5 minute job.
The set screw is on the left side of the switch. It is
immediately behind the padded plinth that surrounds the lock. You need
not remove the plinth, but it is difficult to see with the plinth in the
way. A small dental mirror will let you see it. It is at nine o'clock,
and the head of the set screw is pointing at the left a pillar. A small
flat bladed screw driver is all you need. Don't back it out all the way,
or it will fall on the carpet and you will lose it (did I mention that
it is SMALL?)
Pop the switch off the back of the lock and unplug it from the
wiring harness. Installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal.
There were several changes in the switch over the years, so make
sure you get a switch for the correct year.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum
Sent: June 24, 2007 5:27 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch replacement
My '75 TR-6 needs a replacement ignition switch. Looks like a pretty
nasty
little project--seat out, lying on your back. Any tips on making this
job
less nasty. Which of the big three did you source your switch from?
Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas
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