Hi Kevin, that seems like a lot of oil to leak overnight in one go but its
hard to imagine where else it came from but one or more of the seals. They all
tend to leak over time but the front pinion is often the bigger culprit.
Refurbing the diff is no trivial task as many here will testify and it is not
that expensive (around $300) to have someone like John Esposito take care of
it assuming it is just seals and re-setup that are required.
While it is out I would definitely deal with any rust in that area, look for
cracks in the front diff mount brackets (grind through the rust adjacent to
where the pin exits the lower part of the bracket until you see good clean
metal and probable crack) and where the pins are connected to the top plate
and I would box in the brackets as best I could. The outer plates are hard to
get at with the body on but it is worth doing the inner plates while you have
the chance. You can buy the plates and there is a template which several of us
can mail you (it's a word doc) but my personal experience is that it is better
to make up your own template out of thin card and then make your own plates
out of 3/16 steel. The ones you buy have holes in them for ventilation. I
chose to just grind off the lower corners for drainage (a suggestion from
someone in a UK TR forum, Hi Richard..).
Also a good time to check/lube all six UJ's if they are that type and lube the
prop shaft sliding thingy at the front. The drive shaft UJ's are easier to
lube on the bench and you are halfway there with the diff out.
Also check the brake pipe that goes over the cross member with the front diff
mounts. If that somehow didnt get preserved by the leaking diff and has
started to deteriorate it is easier to replace while the diff is out.
Stan (about half way through this exact same project)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf
Of Kevin McNelis
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 10:38 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: My magic TR6!
Hey, folks- I've got a magic car! I knew I had a differential leak- it
was minor. Then, on Friday, there was a big puddle of 3 or so pints of gear
lube on my driveway- but guess what- IT DOESN'T LEAK ANYMORE! It must
have fixed itself!
All seriousness aside, I'm sure it is dry now. So, several questions: What
is the most likely source of the leak? Since I'm gonna remove the whole
hypoid carrier, and replace all the seals, it doesn't really matter, but I
would like to know what areas to pay special attention to. Do I buy
everything Moss sells on the Diff page that says "Seal" or "Gasket"? I'm
also gonna go with the poly bushings.
I don't race or autocross, and rarely dump the clutch (unless I'm playing
with a rice rocket)- should I go ahead and put in the diff mount
reinforcing pieces? Yes, I can weld, yes I can cut steel. Are there
patterns out there for these pieces?
Any other suggestions about what I should do while I have stuff this far
apart?
As always, much thanks to all.
Kevin
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