Jim---You are correct in your assumptions. A properly maintained clutch
linkage will work just fine with the later, smaller MC. The clutch
disengagement problems usually arise from worn linkage in the pedal
box, and/or a broken fork pin.
If you are driving the later model TR6 and decide to go with the early
MC you will also need the proper fluid fittings, as there is a
difference between the two styles. If you're not sure which MC you now
have, the bores a.070 and .075.
The nylon pipe connecting the MC with the SC also works well, having
used my original for 30 years. The braided steel does look cool, tho!
Again, watch the fittings for the proper thread.
If you want to forgo running your fluid thru the SC, and associated
hardware, consider going to the hydraulic clutch setup offered by one of
the list members. It happens to include the braided lines, to and from
the throwout bearing. I can tell you it works slick!
Dick
From:
hurls@world.std.com(Jim Hurley)
Hello again,
This list is great. Having all these folks to help out is a real good
thing.
I have two more questions. First, there are two different clutch master
cylinders used on TR6's, early and late. I believe that the later one
has a smaller diameter bore, to make it easier to push. However, it must
follow that the early model can deliver more clutch travel. Is this a
correct assessment? If I am willing to have a stiffer pedal, should I
use the early model?
Second, does anyone have a source for the flexible pipe that runs to the
clutch slave cylinder, but using braided steel tubes?
Thanks again,
Jim Hurley
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