Mike:
Could be float level, or a damaged or leaking float I suppose.
Also, a pinhole or a tear in a diaphragm can give similar symptoms - you
will need to stretch the diaphragms to do the inspection otherwise you
can miss a small tear or hole. If it is a diaphragm, I would not expect
it to matter if you were cornering or not - but it is easy to check.
Another possibility (I *love* to throw red herrings out there)
is incorrect viscosity for the dashpot oil, although I have not noticed
that my car is particularly fussy about this. Still, I use the Moss oil
specifically designed for the dashpots. Costs $10 for four ounces, so
for that price it better be made from ultra pure paraffin based oil,
custom refined by a blind English Chemist in a secret lab outside of
London. Not, as I suspect, made from the unfiltered crankcase drainings
at the local Jiffy Lube.
The flame traps are simply hollow metal capsules inserted into
vacuum lines for safety purposes. If the engine backfires through the
carburetors (or carburettors if you are English) these prevent the flame
from traveling through the piping and damaging rubber diaphragms in the
dizzy and EGR valve.
Personally, I have a hard time believing that the flames can
propagate through those teensy vacuum lines, but what the heck. I also
didn't believe that Lucas Electrics were powered by smoke, until I saw
with my own eyes that things quit working when the smoke leaks out.
Yes, it *IS* bragging when you start talking about how hot your
car is. But secretly we are all jealous.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of DaCRANEz@aol.com
Sent: January 02, 2007 7:35 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Flame trap
According to the TRF blue book my '71 TR6 would have come with a flame
trap.
Somehow the word "FLAME" makes me nervous. The '72 model did not require
this
part. Just wondering what it does and do I need one other than for
appearance.
While I am at it I have a brief stall when exiting a corner under hard
acceleration. I am prone to think float level. Triple ZS, roller
rockers, 270 cam,
9.5 to 1 comp, twin outlet exhaust manifold, Pertronix, recurved,
rebuilt dizzy
without vacuum retard. Not bragging but would any one of these mods
contribute? Carbs are freshly rebuilt and dampers are topped off. Timing
at 4 degreees
BTDC, any more and it pings. Any ideas welcome.
Mike Crane CC62976L
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