I don't think it is a good idea to remove the drums (unless you just
want to check the linings) and it is not needed to bleed the brakes.
There is indeed a bleed fitting on the back of the brake assembly.
>
>1. To bleed the rears, do I assume correctly that I remove the rear
>wheels, then drums, and that there is a bleed fitting on the wheel (brake)
>cylinders similar to that on the front calipers? I have never
>actually taken the
>drums off. Anything special needed to get them off?
Any good DOT 4 should do, if you like the ATE then use it ...
>
>2. Should I use the Ate fluid, or should I stick with Castrol GT-LMA? I
>like the Ate fluid because it is blue, and I will be able to tell when all
>the current fluid is gone and replaced with the blue fluid.
Since pumping slowly is the suggested method there should be no
damage to the master cylinder or anything else ... pumping slowly
is the key.
>
>3. Any special precautions needed for bleeding that might vary from my
>Porsche? To this point, I haven't had any need for a vacuum
>bleeder due to the
>presence of a willing helper (my son). Will pumping the brake pedal damage
>the master cylinder in this car?
>
I have not ... but there may be other who have ...
Good Luck with your project ...
>4. Has any of you tried the EBC Green Stuff pads sold by TRF?
>
--
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper
AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA
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