j:
When the car is stopped, engine idling, is the car difficult or
impossible to get into first gear without grinding? If so, then your
clutch is not fully disengaging.
The clutch is hydraulic, and is therefore self adjusting, so
check your fluid level first. Bleed the clutch next. Make sure your
slave cylinder is mounted on the BACK of its mounting plate, and that
the slave push rod engages the middle hole on the transmission clutch
lever.
Next insure your slave and master push rods are in good shape
(holes not worn) and that you have new clevis pins installed in both.
If your clutch is still not disengaging, congratulations. You
have been initiated into the TR6 clutch for lunch bunch. Fixing it will
require dropping the tranny. Most likely cause is a broken fork pin.
When you replace it, cross drill the fork and drive in a 3/16" roll pin
in addition to the new pin.
Cheers,
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of j.honor@comcast.net
Sent: August 20, 2006 10:37 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: clutch sounds
74-tr6;just completed 370 mile road trip, beutiful without incident,
except for a growing, 'metal rubbing sound' sounds like a high pitch
spring steel sound-hum a few bars.. when I depress the clutch pedal,
seems like clutch not fully disengaged.if that is it, at this point no
drag feel on lcutch action. is this the first warning signs of new
clutch, throwout bearing, or adjust cluctch slave? all other action on
engagement during up and downshifts appear strong without noticeable
problem
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