"Debbie"---It is sometimes necessary to shorten the original post, as
long replies don't always make it thru the system.
From:
1975tr6@earthlink.net(French Blue)
.....supposedly adjusted the valves and done what they wrote up as a
'complete tune-up', including carburetor adjustment, just last Fall.
After the first test run I decided to check things out and found the
valve gaps to be way off, dwell at 49 and timing at 30. The points were
barely open.
When new points blocks bed in, it is not too unusual for the gap
to close up. This would explain the long dwell, but not the timing at
30.
Don't know about the valve lash settings.
......I can't understand or believe how well the car ran with these
settings. I replaced the cap and plug wires, set dwell at 35 and timing
to 4 ATDC. The second run seemed identical to the first run as far as
acceleration, performance, etc.
This goes to show how forgiving these engines are to misadjustment!
.....1) I used the settings labeled on the inner fender. Are those
accurate? (dwell 35 + or - 3, timing 4 ATDC)
Dwell is Correct. But the 4 ATDC is with a working retard unit.
Otherwise set the timing at 10 or 12 BTDC.
......2) should I continue to vent the valve cover to carbs and charcoal
canister or now only run the valve cover line to the canister? Are there
other options/suggestions on how or where to vent the valve cover?
There are other options, but I'd use the factory system when it
works properly.
.......4) Can I get opinions on plugging the vacuum retard and 'stems'
on the carbs?
If you plug the retard, set the timing as above. To get the idle
speed correct, the fast idle setting on the carbs will be a part of this
change.
.......5) When I installed the new cork gasket on the valve cover I only
applied sealant between the gasket and the cover. I'm seeing a bit of
oil leaking now. Is it advisable to use sealant between the gasket and
the head or should I crank down those three nuts? I snugged them until I
could see the cover 'just barely start to bend'.
Use the sealant on both sides of the gasket, and you won't have to
bend the cover.
6) When the car is started in the a.m., 65 to 70 degree air temperature,
it runs awful. It starts fine but no power at low rpm's. I have to 'gun
it' to 3 grand+ to get moving. This problem exists even when the engine
temperature is 180. Could this be the temperature devices on the carbs?
If yes, how are they adjusted or can they be blocked? The car runs
excellent when the air temperature increases, 80+ degrees. Other
possible issues?
Check the ignition timing. You don't want the 4 ATDC if it isn't
controlled by the retard.
Check the oil level in the dashpots.
Check for hot water going thru the intake manifold tube. (You want
this)
.......7) Are Pertronix recommended?
Some like it, some don't!
......8) The clutch and slave seem to be working fine (tranny from
British Vic and slave from TRF, replaced last year by Jeep dealer in AL)
but it's very difficult to 'push' the stick into gear. There's no
grinding ... just seems to be alot of effort or force required. Any
ideas?
It should get easier when the oil warms up.
Dick
Thanks for reading and for any advice,
Debbie
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