We're finally getting to the point where we can drive our '75 TR6. I'll get to
questions in a moment. We purchased the car in March and by speaking with
previous owners have confirmed the 53K miles to be original. We also confirmed
surprisingly that the dizzy cap, plug wires and many other parts to be
original!!
With our first test drive we started out slow, driving through the neighborhood
at low speeds, but as our comfort level and trust grew we ended up on the
highway. We found the car to be very solid on the road with great acceleration
and no knocking or pinging. We had done safety inspections of the brakes and
suspension and had changed all fluids, coolant hoses and rubber fuel lines but
had not done a tune-up. Receipts that came with the car showed that a Mercedes
dealer in Anniston, AL, where we purchased the car, had supposedly adjusted the
valves and done what they wrote up as a 'complete tune-up', including
carburetor adjustment, just last Fall. After the first test run I decided to
check things out and found the valve gaps to be way off, dwell at 49 and timing
at 30. The points were barely open.
I can't understand or believe how well the car ran with these settings. I
replaced the cap and plug wires, set dwell at 35 and timing to 4 ATDC. The
second run seemed identical to the first run as far as acceleration,
performance, etc.
Due to a frozen smog pump and damaged exhaust manifold, those have been removed
and an earlier exhaust manifold has been installed.
1) I used the settings labeled on the inner fender. Are those accurate? (dwell
35 + or - 3, timing 4 ATDC)
2) Since most of the pollution devices are removed (yes, I know about Federal
laws) should I continue to vent the valve cover to carbs and charcoal canister
or now only run the valve cover line to the canister? Are there other
options/suggestions on how or where to vent the valve cover?
3) An earlier post questioned removal of the EGR with most responding to leave
it on. It wasn't known at the time that the smog pump and exhaust manifold
were going to be removed/replaced. Since I have now made changes would it
still be advisable to leave the EGR on the car? If removed does anyone know
the plug sizes?
4) Can I get opinions on plugging the vacuum retard and 'stems' on the carbs?
5) When I installed the new cork gasket on the valve cover I only applied
sealant between the gasket and the cover. I'm seeing a bit of oil leaking now.
Is it advisable to use sealant between the gasket and the head or should I
crank down those three nuts? I snugged them until I could see the cover 'just
barely start to bend'.
6) When the car is started in the a.m., 65 to 70 degree air temperature, it
runs awful. It starts fine but no power at low rpm's. I have to 'gun it' to 3
grand+ to get moving. This problem exists even when the engine temperature is
180. Could this be the temperature devices on the carbs? If yes, how are they
adjusted or can they be blocked? The car runs excellent when the air
temperature increases, 80+ degrees. Other possible issues?
7) Are Pertronix recommended?
8) The clutch and slave seem to be working fine (tranny from British Vic and
slave from TRF, replaced last year by Jeep dealer in AL) but it's very
difficult to 'push' the stick into gear. There's no grinding ... just seems to
be alot of effort or force required. Any ideas?
Thanks for reading and for any advice,
Debbie
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