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differential pin welding

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: differential pin welding
From: SamuelsMA@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 12:48:43 EDT
Listers:
 
Well, today I dropped off my '76 at a repair/restoration shop that came  
highly recommended.  That said, the owner really isn't a LBC expert, with  most 
of 
his work focusing on vintage American cars.  There is just SO  little to 
choose from in the Miami area, that I went with someone with a  reputation for 
honesty and thoroughness, as well as a touch of perfectionism  (that part could 
get expensive!).
 
Anyway, the point of this post is that I want to get him good advice on  
differential pin welding.  I bought from TRF all the parts needed to box  the 
front 2 pins.  I am confident that my right front pin is loose.   So I bought 
all 
the bracket parts, 2 new pins, and the large washers used to  make sure the 
pins don't pull through the frame.
 
My questions are:
 
1.    Without taking the frame off, how do you get the  welder on top of the 
frame to weld the pins from above?  The gap between  the differential bridge 
and whatever is above it is pretty tight (maybe an  inch).
2.    The new pins are threaded on one end to accept  the nuts, but on the 
other end do not have any sort of flare or head.  Is  that because they have to 
be inserted from below?  Can the top end of the  pins be welded securely to 
the washers and/or the frame and the washers welded  to the frame from above?  
I 
can't quite picture how this works.  The  bracket replacement and boxing 
seems more straightforward.
3.    I gave the shop owner a shop manual, the TR6  restoration book, and 
some internet material on repairing and boxing the  differential pins.  That 
said, is there an actual step-by-step instruction  set for doing this job with 
the 
frame on?  I am paying by the hour, so  trial-and-error will cost me plenty.
 
The other job he will be working on for me is to check out my clutch either  
for a broken fork pin or for "sticky clutch syndrome."  I have Nelson  
Riedel's excellent write-up of the sticky clutch problem and gave it to the 
shop  
owner.  But to check the clutch fork, am I correct in assuming that the  whole 
transmission needs to come out of the car from below?  Again, any  instructions 
on this would be appreciated.  Also, a specific discussion of  adding a second 
roll pin would be great.  I don't mean for anyone to have  to type something 
out, just a pointer on where to find the info on the  net.
 
Thanks as always!!!
 
Michael
'76 Tahiti blue
CF 57044U




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