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Re: Flywheel question 2

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Flywheel question 2
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 23:48:06 -0700
 I would agree with Rick Patton in that placing a shim (the same
thickness as the material removed from the flywheel) between the
throwout bearing and the carrier sleeve would put things as they were.
But does this mean that adding even more shim material between the two
would help to disengage the clutch sooner? Nah. Remember that this is a
hydraulic system. Like when the disc brake pads wear, the pistons move
down to compensate and the brake pedal contact stays the same. So it is
with the clutch pedal. It should release (or engage) the clutch at the
same spot off the floor as before the flywheel was cut.

I would further agree that taking .100 from the flywheel face seemed
excessive.

Dick
 
From: patton@suscom-maine.net(Rick) (PDT+3) To: mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com
Mike, 
I'm with Vance on this and hoping that just .010" was cut from the face.
I personally grind about a dozen flywheels a week and most passenger
cars are cut from .005 to .040". Big trucks can be cut as much as .125"
but even on a Mack truck that is huge. We use shims between the flywheel
and crankshaft to make up the difference. Passenger car and light truck
shims are .025 and .050". 

Grind too much and the clutch pedal will grab right at the floor with
most hydraulic clutches. 
Dick says you are Ok cutting the TR6 back that much and I have never
tried it on a TR6. He may well be right as the slave cylinder on a 6 has
a pretty long bore. 
If it has actually been cut 0.100", I believe a work around is to place
a shim- not behind the flywheel, 

.... but under the throw out bearing on it's carrier. It will move the
bearing closer to the flywheel. That way the lever on the end of the
clutch shaft would be back in it's original position. Pop the bearing
off the carrier, slip on a ring that is 0.100" thick, and press the
bearing back on using Permatex Sleeve Retainer for good measure. 
The other solution is to go to an internal slave cylinder that sits
right on the quill of the transmission. Even then I would be sure there
is enough travel to disengage the clutch. I'm considering that upgrade
for my car along with a performance 7" clutch when the transmission gets
pulled to change speedo gears in the overdrive. 
Rick Patton
http://sidedrafttbi.com/ 




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