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ZS carb idle adjustments

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: ZS carb idle adjustments
From: Jimandruthhome@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 11:46:43 EDT
Hi,
I don't think anyone has warned about turning the mixture adjustment  too far 
lean (counterclockwise), which causes the whole needle assembly to fall  off 
the end of the threaded adjuster that you turn with the special tool.   Easy 
to do and not easy to tell you've done it, except that from then on, you  get 
no reaction to turns of the tool (guess how I know).
 
To get the needle assembly back on, hold the needle assembly up in its  
proper place and turn the adjuster as if to richen (clockwise) until the 
threads  
catch.  I can't remember anymore how many turns from full rich it takes to  
drop the needle assembly off the adjuster (switched to HS6's at least 10 years  
ago), maybe someone else can say.  It might be worth dropping the needle  off 
once while counting turns from full rich, just so you know what  the maximum 
number of turns you can make (without dropping the needle off)  is.  I did find 
it helpful, If I recall correctly, to remove the  piston from the carb body 
when reattaching the needle assembly this is easy  enough to do, just takes a 
screwdriver), but I think it's possible to reach into  the carb throat and get 
the needle assembly back in place to catch the  threads of the adjuster without 
disassembling anything.  The Haynes ZS carb  manual has the clearest 
illustrations of the these carbs, but you can get by  with either the Haynes or 
Bentley TR6 manuals.
 
The other issue that I think hasn't been mentioned is the importance of  
getting the outer part of the special adjustment tool securely in place.   The 
little protrusion on that part of the tool must be seated in a little  notch 
down 
inside the carb.  It's quite obvious when it engages as you  gently turn the 
outer part of the tool.  If you turn the allen key without  first securing the 
outer part of the tool, you will tear the rubber  diaphragm in the carb body, 
which then must be replaced, as the carbs work  very poorly when there is any 
air leak past the diaphragm.  So, seat the  outer part of the tool positively 
and hold it from turning as you turn the allen  key.  This keeps the allen 
key from also turning another part of the carb  that will in turn twist the 
diaphragm and damage it. (Once again, guess  how I learned this.)
 
Jim Knight




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