Another inexpensive option is to make sure the (black) ground wires are
making a clean connection where they attach to the speedo/tach posts.
Of course, bridge the rheostat and wipe off the bulb glass and the
instrument face. Sand the bulb base, or change them out
Everything here seems to give the effect of about one extra candle power
each.
Dick
Sender: owner-6pack@autox.team.net From:
mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com(michael lunsforInstrument Bulbs
Both Ray and Jeff (see below) have good points though I am not concerned
about the Rheostat problem for two reasons. First I long ago soldered a
bridge wire across the in and out wires to the rheostat. I didn't think
there was any reason why I could possibly want LESS light than the next
to nothing light I had at the time. Secondly I have an early (1970) 6 so
I have the older style rheostat. At least one Healey guy and one MG guy
have been running these lights for several months without problems. I
was told by the seller that several resellers were interested in buying
some from him since the only other sources they had for these larger
wattage bulbs, which were made them by hand, cost 8 to 13 dollars per
bulb. I have NFI in this deal and won't have a definitive opinion on
this until I live with them for a year or so and do some significant
night driving to test them out. Wish me luck (fire extinguisher in
hand).
Mike,
Only two potential issues spring to mind, which would probably stop me
following the same route, but I hope it works out for you. One is the
extra heat generated by 8 watts in the confined space of each
instrument. Secondly, the panel rheostat will be taking almost 4 times
the current - and it's 36 years old. Fire hazard? Keep us posted, Ray
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