Jim Sloane wrote:
> To me, the most interesting point so far, is that some spin on filters do
> have a pressure relief value, which accomplishes the function that my
> mechanic described in the original Triumph fiilter. Maybe I wasn't the
> only person on the board that didn't know this. It would be interesting
> for anybody that has specific details about the original design to chime
> in as to whether or not there is something unique about it's function.
I write from a UK perspective and the filters sold here. I normally pay at
least US$8 upwards for a filter. Unipart, Fram Europe or Cooper are my
preferred makes. They all have an anti-drain valve. Speaking also from a
past as a Standard-Triumph employee, it's sensible to remember the filter as
originally fitted to our engines (and many other makes as well of the same
period) were evolutionary. It was only a few years previously that engines
either had no filter at all, or the filter was a removable piece of gauze
that was washed in paraffin or petrol and then replaced at each service.
Needless to say, these old style gauze filters weren't much good a trapping
particles of almost any size, while later cartridge type to be followed by
modern spin-ons were/are usually good for particles down to about 10
microns.
As many of
> you guys said about using 20W50 oil, the engine was designed in the 40s.
> Is there any advantage to staying with the filtering as originally
> designed, or is a well designed spin-on filter just as good?
Semantics here, but for some history is important. If the thread refers to
the Standard-Triumph six cylinder engine, the first six pot prototype saw
the light of day as early as 1955. It went into production in the Standard
Vanguard in 1959, the Vitesse in 1961, Triumph 2000 in 1963 and the TR250 in
1968. Technology-wise, the engine is an extremely simple but extremely
robust unit whose design reflects the availability and specification of
lubricants that were commercially available some 50 years ago to use in it.
In consequence, the designer of this power unit, (David Eley, who I know
well) is adamant that using a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil is a complete
waste of time and money.
In spite of his 94 years, David maintains the stresses and pressures that
his design creates inside itself are well within the scope of a quality
mineral oil such as Duckhams or Castrol 20W/50 and that to use Mobil 1 or an
equivalent, is completely pointless. It's worth mentioning as well that
David holds similar views for the external oil feed systems that are sold by
Rimmer and Moss (and others?) for his engine.
The Eley design does not require a pressure feed of oil to the valvegear,
just clean galleries and these are easy enough for anyone to maintain
If a bunch of oil
> drains out of the filter when I'm changing it, doesn't this filter design
> hold enough oil to provide the same function?
The drain-out is only likely to come mainly from the spin-on housing and top
of the filter itself. Fitting a new filter only requires the engine to run
at idle after fitting and for the oil level to be topped up after it has
filled and is proving not to leak.
Jonmac
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