Hi...
> I have a complete supposedly rebuilt engine & extra head I picked up
> last year that is sitting under my workbench. My current TR250 runs
> pretty good with 75-80psi cold & 30-40 hot. Does smoke a little after
> shutdown & startup, prob valve guides. Compression is 150-160 with
> the center two cyls being slightly lower, I hear that is because they
> get less cooling.
Sounds like it's running okay.
> Anyhow, would it be worth having the spare head rebuilt?
Maybe... but your motor is running okay. Why mess with it.
> If so can you give me a est $ to do so. Should I have it tweaked a little?
Cost for a valve job should be about $100, but most times you do this
you'll get "other work" done... like shaving the head, or fixing /
replacing the valve seats or guides. All these operations add $$$ to the
final cost. But unless you go wild, you should be able to get the head
done for under $500.
Everything that you do to "tweak" the motor/head costs $$$. How much do
you want to spend?
> Also, how about planning/shaving of the head? I guess I would need to
> know my current deck height. Wouldn't want to bump the compression
> too much with a motor of unknown origin.
You only need to worry about the deck height when you are looking for
every ounce of power from the motor. In fact, it's safe to assume that the
block has not been decked.
If you do decide to shave the head, don't go insane. Remeber that you need
to be able to purchase fuel for your car once you mill the head, it you go
over 9:1, forget about regular and if you get up in the 10+:1 range, even
pump 93 octane can be inadequate...
The milling specs are in the Kastner book.
> Any suggestions on a local Boston shop?
There are lots around the area. The guy that I've used for the last 12
years just retired, so I'm looking around for one, but I understand that
there's a guy in the Natick area in a shop called Import Machine that
knows and likes to work on British car engines... 508-872-7223. He's
probably "not cheap". But you def. get what you pay for.
> Then again I guess I could pull my spare "rebuilt?" motor apart &
> check it out. He had no paper work on it as it was from a TR250 parts
> car he bought for a transplant into his TVR that sat for 10 yrs
> indoors. The good news is it was dry & turned over quite easily with
> a shot of oil.
My rule of thumb is this - if you crack open an engine, figure you're
going to spend at least $1000 getting if back together, more if you get
into any machine work. If you want to spend $1000, then go for it.
Otherwise, clean the outside of the motor, get some paint on it (so it
won't rust externally) then plug all the openings and seal the thing in
plastic and store it somewhere DRY so it won't rust internally and hang
onto it for a spare.
Don't make work for yourself - if the motor turns and you can verify the
compression, it's a "reasonable spare"... however, if you're just itching
to pull a motor apart and you have the money in your "budget", then go for
it. TR6 motors are very easy to work on.
regards,
rml
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent
Consultant MIT unix-linux-help |
Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: xxx-xxx-xxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|