I have a tub on sawhorses right now that I put there with a shop crane.
I lifted the whole thing with fenders and windshield, minus doors. I
don't use any braces in the doorframes. The body flexes but doesn't take
any permanent 'set'. I just adjust the door gaps as I'm bolting down the
body to the frame.
I use 4- 2" heavy duty nylon straps and hook the front ones thru the
angled body hold down holes (under the master cylinder on the driver
side, and the washer bottle on the pax side). The rears I catch behind
the gas tank reinforcement brackets.
I've done this a few times, but try at your own risk!
Jim Franks
PS
I have some pics of the tub 'swinging'. I'll try to post them tonight on
my website:
http://home.adelphia.net/~jimmble/index/index.html
Pimento73@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 12/27/2005 12:28:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>lists@autox.team.net writes:
>
>Also has anyone used an engine hoist to lift the body. Is this
>advisable? and if it can be done where do you mount the ropes to the
>body for best lifting and do you need to remove the windshield (glass)?
>
>its been a number of years, but I did successfully use an engine hoist to
>remove the body from my TR6 and I did it by myself with no problems.
>I had removed the doors, bonnet, and windshield frame
>you MUST have braces for the door openings and I think the windshield frame
>would be in the way.
>I have one of those leveling attachments and I used 4 lift points and
>chains - as I recall i put big eyebolts in place - 2 in front and 2 in
>passenger
>compartment and lifted by those
>
>Cheers
>Jack Mc
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