Steve---I gave you a bum steer with my last reply on the operation of
the brake light switch. It ould have read: "The switch is normally
CLOSED when at rest on the test bench". To get it into the open
position, it has to be adjusted to where it's pressing against the brake
pedal arm. Then, any movement (down) by the brake pedal will close the
switch. Sorry if I caused any confusion here.
Dick
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net(Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, Oct 16,
2005, 11:54pm To: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
Steve---This subject comes up every now and then. Remember that the
brake light switch is normally open, as when tested at rest on the work
bench.
UGH!
The movement of the plunger should close the switch, as when the brake
pedal is depressed. If your bench test doesn't show this continuity, the
switch could be bad.
If bad, it could probably be fixed. Then again, they are so inexpensive,
it's hardly worth it.
And yes... If it "works" as designed, there should be enough adjustment
in the threads of the switch to get it up near the pedal, and have it
operating only when the pedal is depressed slightly. The pedal moves
away from the switch when braking, and closes it.
Dick
'73
From: scates@grandecom.net(Steve Cates)
I have been troubleshooting dysfunctional brake lights on '75 TR6. If I
bypass the brake light switch I have good illumination. I removed the
switch to check it's function. The switch (plunger) moves about 3/8
inch. The circuit does not close until the plunger has traveled 5/16
inch. Because the plunger must travel so far to enable the lights to
work, they never do.
When I read Dan Masters' troubleshooting, it seems the slightest pedal
movement should cause the lights to function. Have I made the correct
assumption? If yes, is it possible to fix the switch or is it best to
replace it?
Steve
Corpus Christ, TX
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