Bill
Assuming the pedal stays up after you pump it, like when it's sitting
still, I'd take a look at the wheel bearings. If the front bearings are
a little loose it will allow the rotors to lean when cornering. This
will push the pads back into the calipers with a resulting loss of brake
pedal. If the rotors were/are warped I'd think you should be able to
feel it as uneven braking at low speeds with light pedal application.
Also there is a residual pressure valve(aftermarket). Kastner
recommended this be installed on the master cyl. side of the 'T' to the
front brakes. This maintains minimal pressure on the front brakes and
reduces the pad push back syndrom.
Carbs - Think you may be missing a return spring on the linkage that
goes from the bell crank on the firewall to the one below the center of
the carbs. Seems mine has one there but haven't broken anything there
for quite some time, so I haven't looked, but I'm thinkin there was one
there.
HTH
Bill '70 6
Bill & Skip Pugh wrote:
> Hi folks,
> We have been fighting the results of our eBay purchase since
> January ... not PayPal nor the Seller ... just trying to fix all the
> things that were wrong. Rosey (1970 TR65) was/is beautiful, but it
> was only skin deep. All the mechanicals needed serious attention.
> We have finally got to the brakes and carbs. Everything, and I
> mean everything, in the brake system is now new. And the brakes work
> great ... most of the time ... occasionally after a run it takes a
> quick pump to bring the pedal back up. OK, OK everything did not
> include the front rotors, caused they "looked good". I seem to recall
> that you can some times have a rotor that is "bent/warped/out of
> round", which causes the pistons to move back into the caliper and
> then you lose pedal on the first application ... True? False?
> If True ... how do you check, dial indicator? or would you just
> replace the rotors on the assumption that everything else on the car
> was toast and they probably are too ... 'tis a puzzlement ...
> CARBS ... just had the strombergs rebuilt ... professionally
> ... now we cannot get them to idle correctly, as is idle speed is
> close to 3000 rpm!! I have checked all the linkages and reset them to
> factory specs, and that helped a little, but I notice that when the
> throttle is released the throttle shafts from both carbs do not go all
> the way "home" . If I pull up on the connecting shaft the carbs idle
> normally, punch the throttle and you have the 3000 rpm idle again. I
> "fixed" it long enough to get to the Ironstone Concours by installing
> a strong spring from the middle valve cover bolt to the, for want of a
> better word, uplink shaft. This works and was OK at Ironstone, they
> don't do engine compartments there, but not OK for me and the coming
> true concours at Serrano.
> It seems to me the the small coil springs on each throttle shaft
> are not strong enough ... and/or the throttle shafts are too tight.
> Well that is my story and I am sticking to it. Any help/ideas
> gratefully accepted.
>
> Thanks for your time
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