Michael,
First you need to adjust the small adjuster screw at the rear bottom of the
drum as stated before. Soak the adjuster in lubricant and get a good long 1/4"
wrench so you do not round off the edges! Tighten enough to get the drum to
drag and back off a flat on the screw. You should be able to feel the flats
as you tighten or loosen the screw. Once you get the shoes adjusted, then you
can adjust the hand brake cable one side at a time.
I would suggest doing one side at a time and have the opposite side
disconnected from the drum arm via the dowel and pin so it does not affect the
adjustment on the other side by tension. I wanted my hand brake to click up
about
3-4 clicks to firm lock.
Loosen the lock nut several turns at the back of the u-shaped bracket.
Remove the dowel and pin. Then turn the u-shaped bracket a few times around.
You
may want to clean off the threads good for ease of turning. You will need to
screw the metal u-shaped bracket further up the threads to tighten up the
slack. Trial by error. Once you have turned it some, put the dowel back on the
brake lever and pull up on the hand brake. If too tight (1-2 clicks) back off
on
the bracket. If still too loose, screw the u-shaped bracket further by a
couple of turns. Then try again. Once you get the hand brake slack removed and
shoes biting after 3-4 clicks you are done with that side. Tighten the lock
nut on the u-shaped bracket.
Now do the exact same thing on the opposite side, again remove the dowel
from the side you just got adjusted correctly so it does not affect the other
side. Your aim is to have both sides get tight at the same number of clicks of
the hand brake.
Then connect the previous side's dowel and pin and you have good hand brake
tension. Note if one side is adjusted tighter than the other, one side will
not be biting well on the drum.
Good Luck
MRankin, 1971 TR6 CC 61212 L
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