Great advice from Dick as always, but I'll add one more point which I
unfortunately had to learn the hard way. A rad shop cannot tell with
100% certainty that there is no partial blockage in the rad, nor will
their flushing of a rad always get all blockes out. I had my radiator
cleaned/flushed by a very reputable rad shop and they gave it back to
me saying they'd gotten a lot of gunk out and it was in good shape.
The car continued to overheat and so I tried everything (and I mean
EVERYTHING) else to figure out what was going on, but the car continued
to overheat. Finally several months later I went back to the shop to
explain what was going on to see if they had any ideas, and that's when
they told me "oh, it's possible we didn't get all of the blockage out,
you can never be totally sure". Ordered a new rad, and sure enough,
problem solved.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net> wrote:
> Harry---I too will assume you meant no blockage detected when the
> radiator shop tested it. So..
> I will suggest other things that could be causing the problem.
>
> 1) Retarded ignition timing. You should be seeing around 24 deg. BTDC
> with the engine rpm at 2500.
>
> 2) The ignition retard line, if still connected, could be at the
> wrong
> port, meaning timing could be retarded when off-idle. As with 1),
> check
> with a timing light.
>
> 3) There is still cavitation taking place in the cooling system. Do
> the
> "removal" drill.
>
> 4) The temp gauge is wrong. Does it show other signs of overheating,
> such as the coolant overflow bottle fills up quickly after engine
> shutdown?
>
> 5) Unless you're sure the thermostat is operating correctly, and in
> right-side-up, take it out...just to test.
>
> 6) If the gas gauge is also reading high, check the connections at,
> or
> replace the voltage stabilizer. (Behind the speedo)
>
> Let us know what you unearth!
>
> Dick
> '73
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