Michael,
I think what they are telling you to do when they say to remove the
wheels is not to take off the drums but to remove the wheels to allow
for easier access to the adjuster in the rear of the backing plate. I
suppose it is possible to raise the rear wheel and crawl under the car
to make your adjustments but I would think it easier to take the wheel
off. I havent read the specifics in the Haynes manual and it has been
a year plus since I adjusted my brakes but you should start with
adjusting the rear brakes before making adjustments to the emergency
brakes. Chances are you wont have much adjustment to make if your
braking is fine. Of course much of the braking on the TR6 is done by
the front brakes and while the braking might feel fine you might find
your rear brakes are not as tight as you think. You dont mention the
age or condition of the rear brakes so I am assuming that everything is
in good working condition.
Thats my opinion, I am sure others will have more to add which is a
good thing considering my feeble memory.
Aaron
Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
Topsham, Maine
-----Original Message-----
From: SamuelsMA@aol.com
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 20:11:02 EDT
Subject: handbrake adjustment
Now that I have successfully opened up the insides of the doors,
repaired
the passenger-side window winder mechanism, and banished rattles from
both
sides, I am ready to work on handbrake adjustment. At present, my
handbrake is
too loose, so that pulling it fully up really doesn't imobilize the
rear
wheels. I read the section in the Haynes manual. Before adjusting
the 2
cables,
it states that the rear wheels should be removed and the rear brakes
adjusted.
If the car is braking fine, is there any need to get into the rear
brake
drums when adjusting the handbrake? Otherwise, the adjustment is done
from the
transmission tunnel area.
Thanks.
Michael
'76 Tahiti Blue
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