Stan---What might help cutting thru all of this proceedure is to surmize
what the good people at Triumph and Bentley wanted us to carry out. That
being, to have a slight amount of runnng clearance beween the bottom of
the pedestal and the drive gear. (Which would also give clearance
between the drive gear and the cam gear) The idea here is to keep these
two gears in proper mesh.
Too much clearance might permit timing variation. among other
undesirables. Too little, and parts would get hot, wear prematurely,
and/ or possibly lock up.
When you get this .005 clearance, you'll be able to stick a finger into
the center of the drive gear and feel a "wiggle" it as you lift it up.
If you can't feel any slack, it's probably too tight and needs another
shim.
Te "silicone" could have been the PO attempt to keep stuff from getting
in or out.
Dick
Stan wrote:
6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Setting the distributor drive shaft end
float
While doing some experiments with distributor configurations I had to
rotate the drive slot a little to get the tach cable and vacuum advance
oriented better. While doing that I realized that instead of paper
washers between the pedestal and the block there was a layer of silicone
sealant. So I'm not confident that the end float was ever set.
So I'm looking at page 90 in the Bentley book and I'm not exactly
following what they are describing. It looks like what they want me to
do is put a flat washer on top of the dizzy drive (the cog with the slot
in it that I recently rotated) and then insert the pedestal minus the
distributor. With the pedestal sitting on top of the flat washer,
measure the clearance between the block and the pedestal and using the
known thickness of the washer and the known thickness of the paper shims
calculate how many shims will be needed (if any) to result in the .005
end float.
Ie what we are doing is allowing for a gap between that slotted cog and
the bottom of the pedestal.
Does that sound correct ?
Stan
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