The anti-run valves do work well, but the circuit is a bit different
(at least on my '73). The valve energizes when the ignition has been
turned off but there is still oil pressure (the valve is wired to the
oil pressure switch). This connects the vacuum system to the float
chambers of the carbs, stopping any further flow of gas. When the oil
pressure drops further, the valve de-energizes.
You would need the proper carbs with float bowl vents (which
themselves are operated by a small valve) to replicate the original
setup.
Jay
'73 TR6
On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:59 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
> Jim---The valves as said to work well. I understand they are now hard
> to come by, but there is a place in England that sells something that
> supposedly does the same thing as these valves. The mention of the
> option is shown in Roger Williams Restoring....book. Looks simple
> enough
> to fit it to the intake manifold. It is wired to open a large air
> intake
> when the ignition key is shut off. That dilutes the air/fuel mix
> enough
> to cause the engine to stop, plus vacuum drops to zero.
> Installing either of these would only be worth the effort if the
> dieseling is frequent and annoying.
> I haven't had any anti-run on valve in operation for many years now,
> and have never experienced the run-on, before or since. I do know the
> early engines are more prone to this run-on, but then again, most
> don't
> have the anti feature!
> The best pump gas in my area is 91 octane.
>
> Dick
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