John,
Mark Johnson & I just tackled something similar to
what you're doin'. My problem was that the
bottom(closest to the lower t-shirt) had developed a
hole...quarter size, but as we all know...it was
bigger once we started hammering. So, we cut out a
larger hole...well square. He welded a piece of
metal, vertically, beside the tubes...tacked it on the
fore & aft sides. We only did one side, but you can
see where this would strengthen the tues. Then we
welded a plate onto the bottom. If it's done right
you shouldn't notice the fix.
I suppose you could cut a hole in the bottom & put new
tubes in, but all this was done with the body on the
car. We did the diff mounts whilst were under there.
Loads of POR-15 & she's good as new!
Good luck,
Todd Bermudez
CD198L
CF25768UO
--- John Cohen <jmcoh@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I recently installed a set of Goodparts adjustable
> trailing arm brackets
> with new poly trailing arm bushes in my 1976 TR6.
> Everything was going
> great until we tightened up the bolts on the
> passenger side outer bracket.
> The walls of the outrigger or trailing arm box
> section started to collapse
> as it was tightened. The outside metal is solid so
> we concluded that the
> spacer stiffener inside the outrigger had collapsed
> due to internal
> corrosion. We temporarily fixed it by fabricating a
> plate of sheet steel on
> both sides of the outrigger to spread the load over
> the whole box section
> and it worked great but it only a temporary fix.
> Has anyone replaced this
> part on the frame with the body on, from below. In
> Roger Williams book, How
> to Restore, on page 57 he talks about a two piece
> repair part that he calls
> Option 1. Where can I buy option 1? The
> replacement frame parts at Rimmer
> Bros and Moss do not specify one or two piece
> replacements. Any thoughts or
> suggestions?
>
>
>
> John Cohen
>
> 1976 TR6
>
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