Don---The C-clamp is one method of pushing back the piston, but it's far
easier to just lever the exposed piston back (as necessary when changing
to new pads) using something as simple as a brass bar or wooden dowel.
Here, you are having to overcome the resistance of pushing back the
fluid to the MC. When doing this without line fluid, it should be
easier.
Note that when removing the brake pads from a car that was in service,
that these pads are not dragging on the rotor. Between rotor run-out and
the o-ring tendency to pull the piston back, there should be a few
thousandths clearance.
You may not even have a problem, so I will suggest this. Get your system
to where you have front brakes. (They lock the wheels) When you release
the pedal, and then turn the wheels by hand, they both turn freely
within a few revolutions of each wheel. If they don't, remove the
offending wheel and see which (inside or outside pad is still tight
against the rotor. Take it from there.
Dick
Don wrote, in part:
....I can push the new pistons in the rebuilt calipers by hand, but I
can't pull them out or rotate them by hand.
I know nothing about disk brakes, but I understand when you replace the
pads you use a big C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper
cylinder. Seems they must naturally be a tight fit if you have to use a
C clamp. Why not just squeeze them back with your hands -- the fit must
be too tight for that? When you replace pads can you push the piston
back into the cylinder by hand?
I believe the black pistons are anodized -- prevents rust.
Confused....
Don Malling
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