Jim,
Here's some troubleshooting tips:
1) Make sure the battery is good. I know you said it was new but I would
check it. Fully charge the battery with a battery charger and then have it
load tested. Most any auto parts store will load test the battery for free.
2) If the battery checks good, try this test. With the engine off, check
the battery voltage with a volt meter (the Lucas meter in your dash may not
be accurate). It will usually be around 13 volts. Fire the car up and turn
on the headlights and blower motor and run the car at about 1500 rpm. The
alternator should be able to keep the voltage somewhere between 13 and 15
volts (assuming a good battery). If not, then the alternator (or the
voltage regulator in the alternator) isn't up to par.
Hope this helps,
Terry Geiger
Florence, Alabama USA
http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org
'74 TR6 (for sunny days)
'59 TR3A (basket case)
'84 Mercedes Benz Turbo Diesel (for the wife to drive)
'90 Chevy S10 (parts fetcher)
----- Original Message -----
From: <jserignese@notes.cc.sunysb.edu>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 8:53 AM
Subject: Alternator
> Good Morning,
>
> My (new) battery is not holding a charge and my volt gauge is reading
> less
> than 12v. Tightening the alternator belt did not fix the problem. Aside
> from the Bentley
> high tech test procedure (what is a variable resistor and how does one
> obtain one?) and the Hanes manual's suggestion that it is too complicated
> for a moron like me.
>
> Should I just fork over the bucks and get a new alternator? If someone
> could share a practicle diagnostical approach it would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
>
> Jim Serignese '74.5 TR6
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