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Re: Head Studs

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Head Studs
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 00:08:12 -0800
Joe----As with others on the list, I was disappointed with aftermarket
quality of some of the parts supplier bolts. Some years back, the rod
bolts from Moss had threads so bad I wouldn't use them. One shouldn't
have to chase the threads of new bolts or studs (They gave me credit for
the cost, but were reluctant to just replace them. That told me
something!)

Meanwhile, there are fairly reliable methods to test the "old" bolts.
Screwing down a new nut to the bolt thread root should make a stretched
bolt show up, as the nut prematurely tightens. Bolts rarely stretch on
their own, unless overtorqued.  I still use all the original rod, main
bolts and head studs. They are not stretched, nor has one ever failed.
Owners with race-only engines are probably more cautious, and use
special hardware.

The only bolts I use Loctite on are at the flywheel.

Dick

Lizirbydavis@cs.com Date: Sun, Feb 27, 2005, 7:10pm (PST+3) To:
6pack@autox.team.net Subject: head studs 
Is it prudent to replace the head studs when rebuilding? 

Is there a way to tell if the present hardware is deficient?

 Is it worthwhile to buy the "upgraded" studs? APT sells the set for
$129.00, Moss is $159.00. I did buy new fasteners for the mains and
con-rods. The bolts from Moss have a flange (like a washer). The old
hardware does not. Why are there no lock washers on main cap and rod
bolts? Should I use locktite? 
Getting closer to rebuilding
Joe Davis 




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