Based on Dave's post below, I will continue with the purchase.
The list is at 37. I'll order 40. I'll see if they'll give me a price break.
Lots of list members use the two hammer method to separate the ball joints and
tie rods. I guess
this tool could be viewed as an aid to that method.
In addition to David, another list member has used it and also recommends it.
I guess if it's junk, we can't say that Thomas didn't warn us.
If anyone wants out, let me know soon. I will call and order tomorrow (Monday).
Don Malling
1. Dennis Lambert blambert@socal.rr.com
2. Oliver sumton@sbcglobal.net
3. Bob Labuz yellowtr@adelphia.net
4. Bill Schooler schooler@adelphia.net
5. Mike mjanacek@snet.net
6. Adam Baesley abeasley@samgroup.com
7. Steven Humphrey behappy@insightbb.com
8. Tony Cascio whosgoofy@adelphia.net
9. Charles Chesire cachuck2000@sbcglobal.net
10. Aaron Cropley Acekraut11@aol.com
11. Jim Holmgren jholmgren@advertising.com
12. Maynard Hirsch mghirsch@netzero.net
13. Jim Davis jdavis344@bellsouth.net
14. Adrian Tedder teddera@coolaccess.net
15. Mark Hooper mhooper@digiscreen.ca
16. Larry Daniels ladaniels@sbcglobal.net
17. Glenn Rattmann k6na@cts.com
18. Jay Snable jsnable@mac.com
19. David Council dcouncill@msubillings.edu
20. Robert McBride rmcbride@twmi.rr.com
21. Steve Shoyer Steve@shoyer.com
22. Harold Sawatsky hsawatsk@sasktel.net
23. Don Malling dmallin@attglobal.net
24. Rick Brown mgrick@mgcars.org.uk
25. James Lbcnut@aol.com
26. George Re mgman71@verzion.net
27. Charles Dubois duboistr3@yahoo.com
28. Jim Ebersberger jebers@wpa.net
29. David Templeton davidt@opentext.com
30. Doug Matthews mathews@uga.edu
31. Bob rbreazeale-tr250@mailblocks.com
32. John North jnorth@novagate.com
33. Bill Saidel saidel@camden.rutgers.edu
34. David Welch Publicus@earthlink.net
35. Frank Krajewski frankk@intap.net
36. Mark Macy pmmacy@att.net
37. John Cyganowski janah@att.net
Dave Waldorf wrote:
> I got mine from J.C. Whitney more than 10 years ago. It works wonderfully, if
> you know how to use it!
>
> It is not designed to power tie rods apart. If you're cranking on it hard
> enough to strip the threads you're not using it right. This tool should be
> tightened down on the joint as hard as is practical (i.e. don't strip
> anything), and then tapped with a hammer with gradually increasing force until
> the joint seperates easily or the the tool gets loose and needs retightening.
>
> At least 4 out of 5 times when I've used this thing it only takes a few taps
> to seperate the joint and I've yet to see it damage a grease seal or boot at
> the joint (try that with a pickle fork!). It's one of the best $10 tool
> buys I've ever made! :-)
>
> --Dave Waldorf
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