although my experience is with a TR3, I think there are some lessons I
learned.
1. Be sure to fit everything on a fully loaded chassis.
2. Be sure to fit the trunk and boot lids as well as the doors as you weld
up the floor pans and the trunk.
the adage of measure twice, cut once, has a certain applicability here . . .
just my .02
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Malling" <dmallin@attglobal.net>
To: <Aledotr6@aol.com>; "6-Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>;
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: Body Mounting Question (longish)
> Hi Bud,
>
> I'm about to do this myself on my TR250. Can you send me any responses you
get?
>
> I read somewhere that you should start in the center and work towards both
front and rear at the
> same time.
>
> Seems you would want the doors and fenders on while you were doing it so
you could see how things
> were going.
>
> The center sill pads do seem like a puzzle. In my case, I would have to
take the doors and fenders
> off to reinstall the bracing and lift the body. Maybe closing the doors is
enough to lift it a
> little to get to the sill shims???
>
> Starting to scare me....
>
>
> Don Malling
>
>
>
> Aledotr6@aol.com wrote:
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I am finally putting my TR6 body back on it's frame after two years. I
had
> > saved and labeled all of the original pads and am using them as an
initial guide
> > before I fit the wings and doors for final adjustment. I started from
the
> > front and worked my back, leaving a few turns of the bolts to go so
that I could
> > shift the body as needed. I was surprised and pleased that all the pads
were
> > going into place exactly like the original. That is, until I got to the
> > differential cross member. The original had one aluminum pad on each
side, and that
> > is what is required per the TRF fit kit. However, it now takes two pads
to fill
> > the gap. The rear most mounting point still needs one pad, as per
original,
> > so it doesn't seem as though the rear bowed down while off the frame. I
did
> > have angle iron welded across the door openings to prevent this.
> >
> > Anyone have any suggestions as to what is happening? Am I worrying
about
> > nothing?
> >
> > One more question. The TRF mounting kit mentions that the sill bracket
> > mountings are where you adjust the door gap. I assume to close the
upper rear gap
> > (which seems a bit much before I took it off), you would reduce the
number of
> > shims on the rear bracket. If you need to do that, how do you get to
them? The
> > bracket and sill seem to effectively box in the shims. I can't imagine
getting
> > to them without lifting the body again. Is the correct method and can
you
> > easily add or remove shims to that area?
> >
> > Thank for you help,
> >
> > Bud Trussell
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