I snipped a good bit.
After looking at my wiring diagram ('72 version) there are only a few
common places for all of these components that would not cause the
engine to quit running also. The fuse holder is where I would look
first. One of the problems that push-on type connectors have is
corrosion. Corrosion means a higher contact resistance which generates
heat which causes more corrosion, and so on. The fuse block on mine has
one melted section.
The oil warning lamp is wired at the bottom of the brake lamp (the
ground side) so the brake lamp should be on also. Theory is that the
two lamps should be of about equal brightness and about half the
brightness of the brake lamp in it's failing condition. About the only
thing, other than massive wiring harness failure, that can cause this
would be a shorted oil pressure switch.
If you don't have Dan Masters book look at
http://www.britishv8.org/techhome.htm and download one of their wiring
diagrams
Regards,
Stephen Hanselman
>
> 1) My gas gauge, temp gauge, turn signal and heater blower all went
off
> today, then came back on then went off again. Can anybody tell me the
best place to start in running down this problem?
> 2) The yellow oil light at the bottom of my tach stays on all the
time.
The oil pressure gauge reads normal and the engine oil level is full. I
haven't had the chance to check the wiring connections yet for either
problem.
Ken
So San Francisco
73 TR6 - CF7000U0
(Almost) Daily Driver
Not Concours Condition, but PDG!
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
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