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RE: Anti run-on valve problem - second verse

To: "The Duckworth's" <trduck@cox.net>, "tr6 List"
Subject: RE: Anti run-on valve problem - second verse
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 16:58:32 -0700
        The ignition light should have nothing to do with the anti-run
on valve, unless
you have a short somewhere in the wiring (possible, but unlikely). When
the valve is
correctly wired, it should not click when the car is started. In order
to operate,
there must be oil pressure, and the ignition switch must be off. This
will only
occur when the engine is shut down after operating long enough to build
oil pressure.
        If your ignition light is staying on, try reving the motor a
bit. It should go
off. If not, you have a charging problem of some sort.
        You didn't state where you ran the jumper wires *FROM* when you
were testing the
valve. Did you run them from the valve or the oil switch? I would run
them from the
valve itself, with the stock wiring disconnected from the valve. If it
doesn't
click, then it is most definitely dead. If it is dead, and it is stuck
in the
closed position, then it would explain your rough running in that there
is a vacuum 
being applied to your float bowls, which will lean out the mixture.

        Cheers,

        Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of The Duckworth's
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 4:09 PM
To: tr6 List
Subject: Anti run-on valve problem - second verse

Dave and 6packers:

<snip>

When I put on the new anti-run on valve (with the old incorrect wiring
from
the sensor) it clicked when I turned the car on and ran perfectly that
evening.  Both the idot lights went on and off as normal.  However the
next
day, the sensor light for the oil light went out immediately when the
car
started but the ignition light continued to glow bright.  The previous
'click'
for the anti run-on valve was no longer present and the valve
doesn't move up or down.  Nor can I get it to 'click' running test wires
to
the battery terminals.  The car is running rough from stops but does
fine at
speeds above 25 mph and the ignition light now has a very faint glow but
comes
on bright when I turn the car on and off.    I've checked the most
obvious wiring and don't see any breaks I also cleaned up the leads just
to
ensure everything has good contact.

I'm now thinking the mis-wired oil sensor may have toasted the new anti
run-on
valve and that's what is causing the faint glow from the iginiton
light and the fact it doesn't 'click'.  A new one is enroute.

Any thoughts or additional checks before I put the new on in?

Thanks - Charlie

76 TR6

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