Charlie:
While a short someplace in the wiring is always a possibility,
it sounds to
me like your oil pressure switch is miswired. There are 6 different ways
to wire
that switch, only one of which is correct. There is no attempt to key
the
connections so that it is "idiot proof". To make things worse, the oil
pressure switch has at least two connections that are normally open, so
you
cannot use an ohm meter to discriminate between them. None of the
terminals
on the oil switch are labeled either, best I can tell.
I suggest that you start by insuring that the wiring to this
switch is correct.
You will need a wiring diagram, an ohm meter, and a partner to start and
stop
the engine a few times while you watch the ohm meter to see which
terminal is active
at what time. My DPO simply gave up and left the anti-run on valve
disconnected rather than sort this one out.
In the mean time, you can pull and tape the connections to the
run on valve. This will probably correct your idiot light and battery
drain problem. When you have time to sort out the connections, you can
reconnect it before tracing the wires.
Just my $0.000002 worth.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of The Duckworth's
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 8:17 PM
To: tr6 List
Subject: Anti run-on valve problem
Since about July I have had a problem with my oil 'idot' light coming
after
several minutes of driving. First the light was dim but as the engine
warmed
up the light was at full brightness. I assumed it was the oil sensor
and
replaced it and the condition immediately returned (well at least it was
a
cheap part).
<snip>
Tonight I got into the car to make a run to a local hospital; to
visit a co-worker, and the ignition light was back at it's full
brightness and
the voltage gauge was not charging up as it normally does. The anti
run-on
valve is no longer 'clicking' when I turn on the key so it's not working
again...
Any thoughts from the list on what to check?
Charlie
1976 TR6
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