Joe,
The voltage at the point you were reading should be more like 10.5-11V, if
your TR still has a ballast resistor in series with the coil. It would be
good to check the voltage at your coil when the engine is running, too. It
sounds to me as though you have low voltage at the coil due to a voltage
drop caused by an unwanted resistance somewhere. If you had a short
somewhere and were reading about 8V because of it, something would be hot as
hell somewhere and burning and smoking.
Gary
'73
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Joe Merone
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 12:59 PM
To: Triumph List; 6 Pack list
Subject: Primary coil resistance?
Last week I wrote that my 1974 TR6 was missing and
stumbling under load - just two days after I had
adjusted the valves and actually thought that it was
running good.
Well it turns out that I misread the manual and had
the valves opened WAY TOO MUCH. It's a wonder it ran
smoothly at all. So I re-adjusted them but it still
ran like crap - rough, no power, fouling the plugs,
etc. Something else went wrong at the same time.
Weird coincidence? It must be right? So with nowhere
to go I pulled my Pertronix and put the points back
in. VOILA! Runs great.
I called Pertronix and while helpful they seem
convinced that it's not the unit itself since it
didn't completely die (as it would in a failure). The
tech says that I may have a low voltage problem
because the ignition points will run on low voltage
while a Pertronix won't. So I did the checks:
Battery to positive side of the coil (engine off) -
12.45 volts
Ignition key on, wire attached from negative coil
terminal to engine ground, voltage read from positive
coil terminal to different engine ground - 8.05 volts.
Resistance across coil terminals with all wires off -
3.5 ohms. It's a Bosch coil (aprox. 20 years old).
Does anything sound out of sorts hear?
Joe Merone
CF18928
Not an electrical kind of guy but I play one in my
garage
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