Nick---If you use a timing light and set the timing to fire #1 at XX
deg. BTDC, then "jog" or pull the engine over so this is where the
timing pointer is at. Mark the bottom of the dist. body where #1 plug
wire goes thru the cap, so when you take off the cap, you'll still see
the mark. The rotor tip center, to my way of thinking, should be right
over the mark you made.
Move the optical trigger, or whatever controls when the spark is firing,
to achieve the above. (With points, you move the points plate where it
attaches to the vacuum retard post by shortening or lengthening this
"spring")
When you say the "engine ran great for about a day," it certainly
muddies the water. What changed, one has to ask?
(Remember what Mitch said about resistance to firing at the plugs)
In truth, the engine should run smoothly whether the timing is set at
4ATDC or 14BTDC, so fiddling with the timing is masking the problem. It
can be entertaining to solve these issues by going "out of standard",
but I believe aftermarket products were designed to operate without
doing so, or at least should be part of the installation instructions.
The MSD (points) system that I am familiar with, allows me to set the
timing at idle within a 20 degree window. Performance suffers when not
hitting the ideal, but has none of the issues you speak of. First thing
I would do is to find out what and where this arcing is taking place. Go
from there..
Dick
Nick wrote:
Spam Alert: Re: High Energy Ignitions
Well Guys,
I'm still struggling here. I had the car running great for about a day
,then I noticed it began to miss. It progressively got worse and I
limped back home. I checked everything out and it seemed fine but I
can't get this thing to run right. I'm not crazy here, I can hear
something jumping around under the cap. I'm beginning to think part of
the problem is with the optical trigger Crane sold me. The mounting
bracket it metal and stands about a 1/4 " under the rotating rotor tip.
As you know a TR6 rotor does not have the last 1/2" insulated in the
rotor plastic. I believe the spark is intermittently jumping to this
bracket. I used a timing light to observe all the cylinders and it
seemed the plug that was missing is right over this bracket. The top of
the bracket appears to be pitted as well as the underside of the rotor.
Dick , you mentioned I should set my static
timing at TDC #1 or 10 deg BTDC ? Which should I start with? I don't use
the vacuum advance or retard.
Any help would really be great. You guys are the BEST!!
Thanks Nick
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