Great timing Al... I am doing the same thing tonight.
One additional question. I have bead blasted and painted all my
suspension pieces. Before blasting and painting, I removed all the
grease that was inside the hub. Every hub I have had apart (less than 4)
was always packed with grease. Why? I assume I will need to repack the
hub with grease along with packing the bearings, but what is the point
of all that grease inside the hub, and how much is enough?
Thanks,
Don Malling
Greg Dito wrote:
> Al,
>
> You should definitely, without question, replace the races when replacing the
>bearings.
>
> It's very simple to knock out the old race. Lay the rotor and hub assembly
>down and, with a bright light, look down into the hub center. Inside on the
>opposite side (the race facing down) you will see two small cutouts that
>exposes part of the underside of the race. A nail counterpunch, screwdriver,
>or any long metal object that can fit in that undercut will work. Give the
>punch a good number of firm taps (great force is usually not needed)
>alternating between the two cutouts and the race will slowly creep out of the
>hub. This is done for both sides of each hub.
>
> Installing new races requires a drift that places an equal load across the
>race's entire top edge as it is either pressed or tapped down into the hub.
>Gentle taps will also work as you move the "tool" around the race's top edge,
>in alternating opposite side taps, bringing the race fully home in the hub
>recess. I use a piece of delrin for this as it is hard enough to strike with
>a hammer but soft enough not to damage the race. Again, a great amount of
>force is not needed. Just be very careful that you do not cock the race as it
>goes into the hub. And clean out the hub, (degreasing it would be ideal) to
>remove the old grease and any debris before installing new bearings.
>
> Alternately, any machine shop can do this for you for a very reasonable cost.
>
> Greg Dito
> CD6250L
>
>
>>From: Al Graffam... <pjgraffam@juno.com>
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