On Tue, 20 Jul 2004, Mike D'Ambrogia wrote:
> Where/what exactly are the weaknesses to the internal diff unit in a tr6
> -- I know about the frame mounting point weaknesses and the hub
> weaknesses -- but what about the weaknesses inside the diff itself?
The basic weaknesses are:
1. lack of an easy way to drain/replace the fluid
2. there are brass/bronze thrust washers that'll fall apart if you use GL5
lube.
3. inadequate lubricant cooling - these things run really hot
4. gear failure from excessive heat buildup (see lack of easy way to
drain/replace fluid).
5. Design: the unit is designed for 100 HP. Add in one or to two margins
for error and 200 HP would be about I would want to push through a stock
diff.
> Are
> there uprated R&P gears avail?
There are ring and pinion gears available new. They are not all the same!
You get what you pay for. But they are not cheap, at least the good ones
are not cheap.
> Is the case itself strong enough to
> handle higher HP applications when combined with upgraded axles and
> mounting point reinforcing?
The case is not a problem. The problem is the internals and the axle
stubs.
> If I pump over 300hp thru there what is
> going to break?
First off - you'll never get 300 HP from a TR6 engine. Given a lot of time
and alot of money, you _might_ get to 200 HP, 250 if you a re GOD.
So - we'll assume that your intent is to replace the engine or to "boost"
what's there... and by "boost", I mean a lot. If the case is that you want
a boosted TR6 engine (turbo or supercharged) - the rods will be the weak
point followed closely by the crank...
If you are going to V8 power, then you should seriously consider alternate
differential setups like Ford 8.8" or possibly a custom Ford 9". There are
more or less bolt in kits for the Nissan diff from GoodParts too. The big
Ford diffs will take lots of torque, but you can also add stuff like
limited slip and alternate gears sets for waaaaaay less $$$.
> Mike D
This probably is not the answer you are looking for, but I figured "what
the heck".
rml
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