Hi,
Diff flanges direct experience: 4 stubs sent to machinist, two were
seperated okay, two would not pop. This was with a 30 tonne press.
If you go to larger presses, you should fabricate a plate from steel and
bolt that to the face of the flange with grade-8 bolts torqued to spec
(figure at least 50 ft/lbs - BUT EVENLY TORQUED). Then press against the
axle (with a reversed nut on it) and sit the plate in the press.
EVEN WITH A HUGE PRESS, THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE THAT THE PART WILL NOT
SEPARATE. If the part won't "part", it's junk. See * below.
Diff case spreader comment: this is overkill. The diff carrier to case is
a .003 interference fit (look at the procedure to install the shims for
the carrier bearings). One can easily remove the center section by walking
it out of the case by tapping on the axle holes.
* - if a diff axle stub will not separate, it is possible to remove the
bearing from the backside and therefore replace the seal. NOTE: this
process makes the axle unsuitable for certain applications (like if you
install a Salisbury center section). The inner inner axle has a small
"step" on it to keep the axle from walking out of the case. If you turn
the axle on a lathe and cut down the step flat with the inner bearing
race, you can pull the bearing off the backside. If you do this, if for
some reason your axle comes off the car - there is NOTHING holding the
axle stub to the diff. and the whole thing can go flying. YOU HAVE BEEN
WARNED.
The inner axle stubs (much like the outer axle stubs/flanges) are "tapered
joints with a keyway". The parts have a way of sticking together with
great affinity. This means two things - you must use the right tools or
you will ruin the parts and there are many times that even if you do get
the parts separated, they are junk. That's just the way it is.
Regards,
rml
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