Larry,
With the new chassis, and reworked Tub, my chassis is now tucked under, only
showing about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I also used the spacer just behind the seats
(shelf area) to bring the top of the door down 1/8 to make it seat right, the
striker and door that is. I did spend two day's doing the trial and error thing
to make it look the way I wanted, but it's still not a BMW or even a Honda in
the fit department.
The doors hood and trunk lids were from my old car (only salvageable panels
left). And I installed new BMH wings all around, they fit very nicely by the
way.
Big issues for me was the trunk lid flush at the corrners, the rear valence
covering the chassis properly, the hood while centered, did not close right, it
took some time there that figured out, and the door gaps.
The hardedest part was the gap on the front fenders to the scuttle vent(main
bulkhead)The body shop tried to make it flush, when they did, the fender and
door panels would be noticebly off. If they let it sit out a bit from the body,
the it looked right on the panels but left a big gap. If I close the gap the
door also rubs the front panel. SO it looks like some seam sealer here is the
only fix.
--
Gene Hart
genehart@att.net
1973 TR6 CF10918 U
(Now UO, thanks j.esposito)
Carmine to Pimento
(thanks PPG & Kojack Autobody)-The
owner looks like Kojack :)
Undergoing body & frame off, frame
and body reunited :)
(thanks patient & loving wife)
(c)(201)981-3327
> Hi Gene, wow mine was not that bad. My DPO used doors, hood, and trunk lid
> from a different car, so I have more than the usual fitting problems. I
> also had to use an inch of shims, but the chassis only shows under the
> valence about 1 1/2 inches. Of course I then had bumper and overrider
> mounting issues, too. My car is sort af a sacrificial driver until I get my
> '58 TR3A done. Larry in Asheville
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <genehart@att.net>
> To: "Lawrence K. Brown" <larryandrobin@charter.net>
> Cc: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 1:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Lost Californian needs help with TR6
>
>
> > Larry,
> >
> > When I first got my car, there were (4) 1/4 inch shims on the rear chassis
> to rear body mounts, and the doors were still just closing. The gaps were
> closer to 3/4 inch on both sides. I was amazed how far out the chassis was.
> You could see the body actually attatching to the car, not just the end of
> the chassis rails. It also made my rusty muffler look very beatup..
> >
> > When the body came off, there were holes in the chassis rails all over and
> most of them went straight through. Mine was a gonner when I got it...
> >
> > GH
> >
> > --
> > Gene Hart
> > genehart@att.net
> > 1973 TR6 CF10918 U
> > (Now UO, thanks j.esposito)
> > Carmine to Pimento
> > (thanks PPG & Kojack Autobody)-The
> > owner looks like Kojack :)
> > Undergoing body & frame off, frame
> > and body reunited :)
> > (thanks patient & loving wife)
> > (c)(201)981-3327
> >
> >
> > > Ken, I shimmed my body with fender washers from the hardware store.
> Cost $4.
> > > My chassis is hogged, but nothing on the car has ever been rusty. Now
> my door
> > > gaps are great, but as Gene Hart says, the ends of the chassis show
> beneath
> > > the rear valence. For the cost difference on a daily driver, I can deal
> with
> > > that.
> > > Larry in Asheville '74TR6
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