Hi List,
At first thought I would check for a vacuum leak as you suggested
Ashford. The most common spot is on the aluminum manifold. If the
assembler was not meticulous with making sure the mounting was dead on
or the use of Halomar was not consitant, a leak will happen. Under boost
a weak seal will blow out the sealant. Some cases where the aluminum
manifold was over torqued a leak also happened. All the brackets that
support the SC have to be properly aligned to avoid stressing the
manifold. Another spot that is often overlooked is the manifold to head
studs. These have a habit of loosening causing an exhaust or intake
leak. If he has a boost/vacuum gauge it should read about 16-18 in at
idle if a stock cam is used.
None of this is any more difficult than disassembling a normal
carbuerated car. The same techniques apply to assembly except the use
Halomar as a sealant. Have the owner remove the damper housing on the
HD8 and give me the needle size, it should be a UV. If you can, tell me
if the aluminum manifold has a decal on the top.
I would also check the timing. This should be 8deg BTDC dynamic. Some
HD8's had to have a small pin hole drilled in the butterfly to allow
more air in at idle. You can turn the fast idle screw on the top of the
carb to open the butterfly slightly.
If you want to call me or email I can give you insight in to what to
look for as well as fax you documentation on tuning and assembly.
I promise it will all be worth it in the end.
Mitch seff
MS6453@OPTONLINE.NET
Home or Fax 516-763-3024
Cell 516-250-9345
Work Fax 718-849-8567
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