Tired of reaching through or around the steering wheel to get at the
ignition key? Well I was, so I added a couple of supplemental switches in
more convenient locations: a kill switch and a starter switch.
I set it up so the ignition key must still be inserted and in the ON
position, thereby preserving the steering-wheel lock, keyed security, and
the key's normal on/off/start/aux functions. I leave the key in and ON
(well, except in the Wal-Mart parking lot).
If I decide to remove the switches later, they're installed where the
holes can be innocuously capped and don't alter the wood dashboard.
Kill Switch:
<http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jan/20041266567064316253248.jpg
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Starter Switch:
<http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jan/20041261391362030458524.jpg
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Schematic:
<http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jan/20041261221856928822723.jpg
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The KILL switch is wired in series on the main ignition power wire (brown)
going to the ignition switch using spade or pin-socket connectors, so it can
be bypassed easily.
I installed an aircraft/racing-style flip-guard toggle switch ($10
Autozone PL-SW26) on the shifter console base where there's some back space
just to the left of the shifter/tunnel-cover's big rubber grommet under the
shifter boot. It's out of the way of the brake handle and the passenger's
mini-skirt, but it's still very convenient for routine and emergency use. It
does not disable the running lights or horn, so you still have to remember
to turn the headlights off (ask me how I know). The console does need to be
removed to install the switch, however. On reflection, a black switch guard
would probably look better.
The START switch is spliced-in between the key switch's start wire (white
w/red) and the main ignition wire (brown) so that it's disabled by the KILL
switch.
I used a momentary ON/OFF/ON toggle switch ($4 Lowe's 87171) with a deep
threaded throat, since most automobile switch throats are too short (they're
meant to mount in sheet metal or thin plastic). A momentary ON/OFF toggle
would also be fine, since I only push it down in this location. A pushbutton
would work nicely, too; but I couldn't find an attractive one outside
expensive aircraft equipment catalogs.
I mounted the switch in the center of the heater-control panel so it can
be pushed while my wrist rests on the shifter knob (having just assured that
it's in neutral). This switch has screw terminals, so I added spade
connectors to the wires, so they can be easily disconnected when removing
the console.
I also added a black weather cover ($4/2 Lowe's 76306) to make it less
obvious and to prevent a "Hey, what's this nice, shiny switch do?"
Caution: Don't trust my wire colors. Test each wire before making a
connection.
Doug Morris '74 TR6 CF18kUO, NC
(postings caused by a new digital camera... sorry)
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