Mike,
Steering rack mounts: I really like the alloy rack mounts that I got
from Goodparts (also sold through TRF, as are most of the Goodparts
items). I was never able to get the rack mounted perfectly stiff with
the stock-type mounts, even when using poly bushings. The rack would
always still flex a bit from side to side. With the alloy mounts, the
rack is mounted dead solid. And I don't feel there's any significant
increase in vibration on the steering wheel.
Bushings - I have nylatron bushings from Goodparts, and again am every
happy with them. Just make sure you lube them up nicely so they don't
start squeaking. Handling is great, very responsive, without any
significant increase in harshness or steering wheel vibration.
Definitely don't get stock rubber bushings (unless you are doing a
concours car), I did my rebuild with stock rubber the first time, and
it fell apart in a few years.
Shocks - I have Spax adjustable tube shocks at all four corners. I
picked them over Konis because they can be adjusted without removing
the shocks from the car, unlike the Konis. Plus they have more
adjustment settings. I've heard good things about KYB shocks, and
they're a good bit cheaper than Spax/Koni.
Springs - When I did my front end rebuild, I went with new stock rate
springs, but will likely go to Goodparts springs. These lower the car
a bit, and have a higher spring rate. Be careful of TRF uprated
springs, these have sometimes been known to raise the ride height,
which looks kinda goofy in addition to not being good for handling (you
really don't want to RAISE the center of gravity when looking for
better handling). It's a good idea to invest in a spring compressor
specifically for Triumph suspension (available through TRF and other
British car parts sources), as the regular compressors available in
auto parts stores won't work. The job can also be done with a jack (I
did it this way once), but it's a bit trickier.
Make sure you get new upper ball joints, and inspect the trunnion and
vertical link threads closely to make sure there isn't too much play.
You may need to replace your trunnions (and in rare circumstances,
perhaps also the vertical link) if there is too much wear, but this is
a lot cheaper than having it fall apart on the road!
It's also a good idea to get new anti-roll bar end links and bushings,
as these wear out. Or if you really want to improve things, you can
get uprated front and rear anti-roll bars from Goodparts, which have
heim joint end links, really good stuff.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Michael Greene <m.e.greene@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> I am going to do a major rebuild for my 1974 TRY front end. I would
> appreciate
> if some one would review the items listed for a rebuild. Please
> comment on
> material/manufacturer or if this combination would provide
> unsatisfactory
> results.
> The Roadster Factory uprated coil springs/urethane spring packing
> TheRoadster Factory re-bushing kit: urethane or polyurethane type
> The Roadster Factory steering rack: urethane type (should I use the
> Alloy
> mounting Kit)
> Shocks: Koni, Spax, Monore
> Tie rod end set.
> The rear end will be done in the spring after Uncle Sam gets paid
>
> Mike Greene
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