Thanks, Bob!
Yes, the diff is "still" in the car (I just installed it with the entire rear
axle
-- bushings, seals, etc. -- rebuilt). O didn't want to go through pulling it out
again right away and the drain plug didn't occur to me until the job was
completed
. Brain cloud. So, I'll give the heavy grease bit a try. Great tip. What sort of
lube are you using in your diff? Are some better than others?
Dave
"Robert M. Lang" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> If you look at the bottom of the housing for your differential, there is a
> flat on the cast iron section at the lowest point. The casting flat is big
> enough to allow a 3/8" NPT plug. You can use a smaller plug if you wish,
> for example my race car has a 1/8" NPT drain plug. The problem with
> smaller plugs is that the oil takes longer to drain, especially when it's
> cold.
>
> You can get away with drilling the case with the diff still in the car.
> You have to employ a trick, though.
>
> As you can probably imagine, you do not want to introduce metal chips into
> the diff. When you drill and tap the hole, dip your drill/tap into some
> thick grease (beeswax or thick wheel bearing grease works well). If you
> keep the drill speeds down, the grease will cling to the drill/tap and the
> chips will stick to the grease and therefore not wind up in the sump of
> the diff.
>
> The hardest part of the job will be getting the car high enough in the air
> to allow you to position an electric drill to drill the hole.
>
> Of course all this is moot if you have the diff out of the car already.
>
> Installing a drain plug is a really smart thing to do. Trust me, a lot of
> TR6 owners wind up _never_ draining the diff because of the need for a
> pump. My evidence is that "goo" that I drain out of the used diffs. that
> I've handled. Obviously that stuff has been in there for a LONG time!
>
> regards,
> rml
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