Don,
I jused Bob's trick successfully and his suggestion was to use a machine
screw for the original removal. Once the cap is off he suggested to clean
it up and weld a nut on to the back of it for future removals.
Can't comment on the hardware grade question, but I've successfully removed
old split pins by clipping them as close as possible and using a punch to
drive them out.
Dwayne
'74 being prepped for paint
>From: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
>Reply-To: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
>To: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
><triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Front Suspension rebuilt
>Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 15:04:10 -0400
>
>Beginners questions....
>
>OK I give up.... How do you remove the grease cap? Most grease caps I've
>seen have a lip so you can stick the screwdriver under it and pry it off.
>These's no lip on my TR250 grease caps. I think I remember someone, maybe
>Bob Lang, say that you drill and tap the center of the graese cap, screw a
>bolt down against the end of the stub shaft and the grease cap comes off?
>Details? What size bolt and threads? Is there enough thickness to the
>grease cap metal to hold the threads, or do I need to weld a nut on it?
>
>Also, what do I do when the 35+ year old split pins in the slotted nuts
>break off? Do I have to drill them out or can I break them off as close as
>possible and then just turn the slotted nut off without damaging the bolt's
>threads? Maybe just replace the bolts with new?
>
>Are the nuts and bolts at Lowes good enough -- grade 5? Three marks on the
>bolt head is what I need? I don't see any marks on these bolt heads --
>maybe just too dirty. Enough just make sure the overall bolt length, thread
>length and pitch match?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Don Malling
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