Mark, I'm certainly no expert but perhaps can lend another opinion. I would
sort out your vacuum problems first since I dont know what a smoke test is. I
would block off everything (brake booster, EGR, distributor vacuum retard)
except perhaps the hose going from the intake manifold to the anti-run-on
valve. Others may know offhand if the car will run properly with this hose
removed, since it indirectly routes back to the upper carb chamber. You can
also disconnect the EGR valve, but it needs to be in the closed position. If
that doesnt help. make sure you have all vacuum restrictors in place (see big
3 catalogs). Also, check your timing with retard blocked off, which should be
10 degrees BTDC (same as static timing) at 850 RPM. Also, forgive my asking a
stupid question but since you changed the wires do have the right firing
order?
If you had your head shaved to 9.5:1 then I think you need shorter pushrods,
which I believe you did. You may want to recheck your cold clearance, but it
sounds ok since you are getting compression. After that, check your fuel
delivery, make sure you have a noticeable flow to the carbs. I like to set my
needles initially with the shoulder flush with the bottom of the piston. Hope
this helps.
John - 1976 TR6
Mark wrote:>
I really need the help of the group. I am stuck on an island here
(literally)
and my local resources are kind of low. Quick recap: I bought a '74 TR6 in
December from Indiana and drove it accross country, 2500 miles without any
major problems. Shortly after I got it home, both carbs started leaking.
Instead of just fixing the leak, I took it upon myself to undertake my first
real stab at being a mechanic and rebuilt the carbs with a kit from TRF.
>From that day forward (it was about mid January) my car hasn't run. After
many trials to get it going, I realized that I should do a compression check.
I had 40 in 6; 90 in 5 and between 110 & 120 in 1 - 4. The head was rebuilt
shaving it down to 9.5:1 compression and just put back on the car about two
weeks ago.
I haven't been able to get it running since. Observations: 1) it will not
idle w/o the choke on and even then it's very rough. 2) When you give it gas,
it sounds starved for fuel (makes a loud boggy sound and then cuts out) 3)
EGR
valve is not holding suction as per the test suggestions provided on the list
(removing the vacuum hose, pushing up on the diaphram, plugging the vacuum
hole with my finger and seeing if it holds) 4) We will be doing a smoke test
tomorrow night but haven't done any thorough vacuum tests to date 5)
Currently
have 140 - 150 compression accross the board 6) timing is fine 7) New coil,
plugs, wires, rotor, condenser; rotor cap.
I am suspecting that this has somthing to do with a serious vacuum leak which
we should gather more inforation after the smoke test but am also feeling
that
there might be something more. I've taken the carbs apart more times than I
care to remember and am very close to sending them out to have them
professionally redone but can't really see that there is that much that I
could have really screwed up in the rebuild.
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