Not to contradict you, but Triumph is the only production car application
that I know of that uses fine-thread studs in cast aluminum. Since the
torque values are so low, its always a good idea to put a low-medium
strength locking compound in the stud threads, UNF or UNC. Also in the
racing world, its more common for the stock axle to snap than the hub to
part from the trailing arm.
Hugh Barber
Hollister, CA
'73 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Gregory Dito
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 6:57 PM
To: Andrew Packard; 6pack (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Trailing arm stories
Andy,
Another method to remove the bushings is to drill through the rubber in
several places around the metal sleeve with a 3/16" bit. Then simply bang
them out with a hammer and a wooden dowel.
I'm a bit leery about hearing that you replaced the UNF studs with UNC
threads in the trailing arms. UNF threads are used in high vibration
applications. Maybe other listers have had success with UNC but I'd advise
you to be very careful. Would hate to see the consequences of a failure.
At the very least a good thread lock compound might be in order.
Greg
CD6250L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Packard" <apackard@triad.rr.com>
To: "6pack (E-mail)" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 8:29 PM
Subject: Trailing arm stories
> List:
> My trailing arms are of my TR250 as well as every other part of the car.
Today, I addressed two trailing arm issues. One was to replace the studs
with 3/8-5/16 studs. The other was to remove the old bushings.
> I could only find 1 1/4" studs at Automotive Fasteners that had varying
sizes. I checked them with the hubs to be sure and I should be okay. I
bought shallow nyloc nuts just in case. The 3/8 UNC end went in very snugly
after driling out the threads and retapping the holes. I was able to tighten
them down much more than I would have ever thought about doing the 5/16 UNF
originals. I'll update when I mount the arms and insert the hubs.
> "How to Restore . . " advises us to set the old bushings on fire to remove
the metal sleeve and then the rubber will offer little resistance. It only
worked like that exactly on one of the four. The other three just pushed
out, metal and all, as soon as the lit flange was reduced enough. I don't
have the happiest neighbors after lighting rubber on fire, but the process
does work!
> Andy
> CD6521L
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