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Re: Frame interior rust proofing

To: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Frame interior rust proofing
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 12:21:54 -0500 (EST)
On Mon, 17 Feb 2003, Don Malling wrote:

> 
> How heavy are these frames?

Not too heavy. Maybe 150 pounds. I've moved them by myself (with lots of
grunting) and I'm no Charlie Atlas...
 
> Is it something I could tip on end, lean it against a building, and then
> lift it a few inches off the ground and drop it to jar the crap out of
> it? Maybe with a couple of high school football players? 

You could do that. However, all you need to do is tap it with a hammer
(not hard enough to dent it!) while the frame is supported in the
vertical...

> Seems I remember seeing somewhere that there are internal structures
> inside the frame? Is that true? Or is it hollow inside all the way
> through?

There are "blocks" about every foot or two inside the rear frame raisl for
sure and I think the front rails have these too. I know there is on at the
very front of the front rails... you can see them when you have the body
off.

The blocks connect side-to-side and appear to be fastened at the bottom.

> Kai said I could drill 1/4" holes every two feet or so, and spray it
> with Waxoyl. Maybe after I shake it out, and blow it out with compressed
> air, I could use the holes and Waxoyl wand to spray water in it and
> flush it out, let it dry and then Waxoyl it? Then plug the holes? 

I would not do this. Everywhere that you drill, you have formaed a stress
riser inside the frame.

I would do what I have seen demonstrated - a metal "wand" is inserted
through the rear of the rear frame rails and "fished" through 'till it
bumps into the front rails... they then pressurize the wand with the
anti-corrosion stuff and pull the wand out slowly to get everything
coated.

If you insist in using holes for access, there are a few there for you
already. I would not go making more holes except to verify the thickness
of the metal, and then I would remove a square section and replace with
new metal (ala the Practical Classics TR6 restoration book.

Drilling holes is way unkool in my book. But I'll leave it to the
structural folks on the list to tell you the "why" of that logic.

> Thanks, 
> 
> Don Malling  

Back to shovelling snow!
rml
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