Hi Mike:
5 amps is still too small. the total draw on the circuit with instrument
lights on full bright is a touch over 5amps.
originally the car or at least all of my owner handbooks for my cars call
for 35 amp fuses. Even though 35 amp fuse will blow before any damage would
be done, I go with 30amp fuses because they are more than enough protection
and they are easier to get at a regular retailer instead of having to order
from the big Three.
Thats my 2cents
Brooks
76spit
74 & 76 Six
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of SamuelsMA@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 5:08 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: dash lights update
Listers:
First, thanks to all who sent me notes. Because I supplied the information
that only the dash lights were out and that the fuses were good, most
everyone pointed me to the rheostat. I bypassed it, and nothing changed.
Then I took another look at the car and noticed that my statement that "all
my other lights are working" was based on the headlights, not all the other
lights at all. So I took another look at the fuse, and found that it had a
tiny discontinuity in the filament. A new fuse solved the problem.
Now you see why I am so dependent on the mechanic! :(
Anyway, a minor question: The fuse which was bad was a 2 amp fuse. The new
fuse selection I bought at the gas station had nothing under 5 amps, so I
used the 5 amp fuse instead. I have checked the shop manual and I can't
find
a listing of the proper fuse ratings, just an explanation of how to remove
and insert the fuses. Is 5 amps too high, and should I get a 2 amp fuse for
the application? It is the 3rd fuse down from the top.
Thanks as always.
Michael Samuels
SamuelsMA@aol.com
'70 TR6 PI
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